If you’re the owner of a VW T4 then you have the option to use a really great bike rack, the Fiamma Carry Bike. Trying to find a decent bike rack to fit our Berlingo was a much tougher challenge, until I came across another Berlingo owner who had adapted the Fiamma VW T4 bike rack to fit. The Fiamma VW T4 is not cheap, and the thought of having to drill and cut it made me somewhat apprehensive, but if worked, then it should make for a great bike rack.
First off, if you do this, you’ll void any warranty and you do so at your own risk. If you mess it up, you can’t hold me responsible!
The process involves:
- Drilling two new holes lower down the two top supporting arms (A Berlingo is not as tall as a VW T4)
- Trimming off the excess rack that goes beyond the top brackets. If you don’t do this, you’ll damage the roof of your car when you open the boot
So, in order to help those out there who may be considering the same thing – here’s what I had to do.
Once you’ve assembled the rack, slide the two black brackets onto the top of the boot lid. On the Berlingo Mk 3 (Note – this Fiamma Rack will only work on the Mk3) there are two indentations in the boot lid, use these to slide the brackets on.
Once the brackets are roughly in place, unscrew the feet at the bottom of the rack to about 4.5 cm. The reason is that the whole bike rack is held in place by tension from the bottom brackets pulling the rack downwards. By extending the feet you can ensure that there will be enough slack to tension up (not too much though!).You can rest the rack on the feet when measuring up. Also, just use two of the rubber feet for the bottom. Leave out the middle one – otherwise you will really struggle to fit everything. Then carefully mark with a pen the position of the holes at the top of the rack – using the holes in the top bracket as a guide.
At this point, you can fit the bottom brackets and make sure you can still see the pen marks for the holes at the top. Depends on how careful you want to be! I measured 13.5cm from the top of the rack to the marks I made for the new hole positions.
Then, take the whole rack off and carefully drill with a 6mm bit the new holes you marked out for the top brackets. This is not as easy as it sounds. I took the option to drill from both sides, rather than go all the way through. Ideally, you’d want to disassemble the rack and use a bench drill to get the hole spot on.
Once you’ve drilled your new holes, put the rack back on the car and centre it, then put the bolts through the top bracket. Don’t put the nuts on at this point as you’ll need to take it off again in a minute!
If you’re happy with everything, take the rack off again as you’ll need to trim off the excess rack that goes beyond the top brackets. If you don’t, you will mark or dent the roof of your car as they will dig into it when the boot is fully opened! Take out the red stoppers (a flat head screwdriver will do this). Then mark off where you want to trim the excess. On mine it worked out as 4.5cm from the centres of the new top bracket holes I had just drilled. Cutting is the easiest part of the whole process – just use a hacksaw. Once done, file off the burrs and put the red stoppers back in.
Put the rack back on the car, put the bolts through the top brackets, then open the boot lid (you’ll need to support it) and hook the bottom brackets over the bottom of the boot lid and put a bolt through each one and through the hole on the bottom of the rack. Put the washer and nut on and tighten both up. This will have the effect of pulling the whole rack downwards, tensioning it all up so it won’t move.
Then, put the nuts on the top bracket bolts, tighten up, check all the other nuts and you’re good to go.
You may or may not need a lighting board. Depends on your bikes!
